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One of the greatest debates among bowhunters is about broadheads. Given the market’s countless brands and designs, not to mention all of the different types of bowhunters out there, I can see why. I’ve been bowhunting for close to 25 years, and as you might recall, I also worked at a family owned archery pro shop for 10 years. So, I’ve heard practically every broadhead argument out there. Some people even slander others for their broadhead choices, which creates senseless divides in a community that demands unity.

It’s OK to be a three-blade Muzzy or NAP curmudgeon, a single-bevel bro, or a thick-skinned mechanical fan, but let’s not create a broadhead war with our opinions. New folks are joining our ranks and are looking to the rest of us for solid advice. I’d be ashamed if all they see is a bunch of arguing.

At the end of the day, shot placement is way more important than what’s on the end of your arrow. Excellent shot placement is largely the product of confidence, and confidence comes from proficiency and using what you believe in. To that end, let’s keep an open mind as we discuss the ins and outs of the different broadhead types.


Fixed-Blade

With fixed-blade broadheads, what you see is generally what you get. Most designs are effective, dependable and yield excellent penetration. These heads don’t have moving parts. If a fixed-blade broadhead has a 1-inch cutting diameter, then you know it will yield a 1-inch (or larger) wound channel. That instills confidence.

Fixed-blade broadheads have two potential handicaps. Most designs are small compared to larger-cutting mechanicals, creating moderate wound channels. Earlier, I said that shot placement is the most important thing, and if you put a tiny but sharp fixed-blade broadhead through both lungs of a deer, you’ll get your deer. However, humans are imperfect, and despite diligent training and equipment confidence, not every arrow launched at an animal hits exactly where we want it to. If you’re a few inches off, a small fixed-blade broadhead is less forgiving than a large mechanical.

The other thing about fixed-blade broadheads is they sometimes fly less consistently due to greater exposed blade surfaces while in flight. Wind or a poorly tuned bow can further magnify flight discrepancies, as can variances in arrow straightness. Even with a perfectly tuned bow, I’ve experienced differences in flight from one arrow to the next. High-end fixed-blade broadheads crafted from steel or titanium — these have the tightest tolerances — produce superior flight, in my experience.

Now, does a fixed-blade broadhead make an ideal fit for you individually? Here are some considerations to chew on. Women and youth pulling the minimum draw weight (30-40 pounds in most states) should always choose a razor-sharp, fixed-blade broadhead with a 1-inch or slightly larger cutting diameter. Limit shots to 20-25 yards on a broadside or slightly quartered-away animal.

Bowhunters pulling 50 to 70 pounds who doubt mechanical broadheads should also go with a fixed-blade broadhead (or perhaps try a mechanical on a turkey or hog hunt first). Tuning fixed-blade broadheads becomes finickier with longer draw lengths and higher draw weights with greater velocities. But it’s doable, and I know many successful bowhunters who have great results with fixed-blade broadheads. Aim for a perfectly tuned bow, no matter what your setup, but especially when shooting fixed-blade broadheads.


Mechanical

I’ve taken dozens of game animals with various mechanical broadheads, and the results continually impress me. By no means am I a blood-guts-and-gore type. I don’t thrill over blood pumping out or guts hanging from the wound of an animal I’ve arrowed. However, I do like blood trails that are easy to follow. I’ve witnessed enough skimpy blood trails, and they’re not fun or simple to navigate. In most instances, large mechanical broadheads produce devastating wound channels that maximize blood flow, delivering excellent blood trails.

In my experience, mechanical broadheads also fly extremely well. Some mechanical broadhead manufacturers even include a practice head of simulated weight and profile so that you can practice without dulling your actual broadheads. Mechanicals are deadly accurate and extremely consistent from one arrow to the next, primarily due to the compact in-flight profile. With mechanicals, there are different deployment designs. I’ve tested the different ones and have had great results. Currently, my go-to mechanicals are Rage’s Hypodermic NC and G5’s T2.

Now, not everyone can or should shoot large expandable broadheads. In my career, I’ve matched tons of bowhunters with broadheads based on individual bow setups. For women and youth shooting at or over 40 pounds, I recommend a small mechanical broadhead with a 1- to 1.25-inch cutting diameter. Shots must be close and at broadside or slightly quartering-away animals.

Shooting 42 pounds, my wife took a buck in 2016 with a 20-yard broadside shot using a 2-inch Rage Hypodermic; I usually suggest a smaller diameter for that poundage, but I had faith in her and her setup, and the results were flawless. The buck ran less than 100 yards, and the blood trail was vivid.

I suggest saving the largest mechanicals for more powerful setups. For example, I shoot 70 pounds at 27.5 inches with a 441-grain arrow, which produces a 295-fps velocity. I’ve used mechanicals as large as 2.5 inches with outstanding results. On most hunts, I use mechanicals with 2-inch cutting diameters. The penetration and devastation have always been excellent, even when I’ve gotten too close to the shoulder and struck a leg bone.


Fixed-Blade/Mechanical Hybrid

If you like the sounds of a large mechanical but are unsure about the reliability, you might be interested in a crossbreed between fixed-blade and mechanical broadheads. Several manufacturers offer such hybrids. The fixed blades cut no matter what. The expandable blades then open to create maximum hemorrhage. These broadheads are gnarly and can produce the most devastating wound channels possible.

Essentially, the fixed blades create a pilot hole for the expandable blades, then the expandable blades deploy once inside the animal. The only real challenges shooters face with hybrid broadheads are the ferrule’s longer length (aluminum designs with mediocre tolerances are less likely to fly true at farther distances) and more exposed surfaces in flight.

I strongly recommend using hybrid broadheads only when shooting a sufficient draw weight. With huge cutting diameters, driving these monsters deep requires a powerful setup. I wouldn’t even think about using them if shooting less than 60 pounds.

A Few More Things

There are too many opinions floating around about broadheads, and some folks take it way too far by slandering others and their choices. This is nonsense. Follow independent broadhead tests, or do your own testing with ballistic gel, plywood or feral hogs. The results won’t lie, and you’ll then be able to confidently choose a broadhead to bowhunt with this fall.

Large mechanicals work for me, but I don’t bash those who prefer fixed-blade heads. The best approach is to first stand back and look at a given setup. Next, do you lack faith in the accuracy of a fixed-blade broadhead, or do the moving parts of a mechanical broadhead instill doubt? I believe there is no room for a lack of faith in what you use. Choose what makes you confident, and that in turn will help you to take your shot more confidently, which almost always results in better shot placement. Think about it: You’re focused on making the shot, not worrying if your equipment will work.

Use what you believe in, but don’t bash others and their choices. If we all look at things from this angle, we can end the broadhead war and the senseless divides it has created in the bowhunting community.

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